Above: Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci of Tenuta Il Poggione makes all of the Mazzoni wines. He was quoted last week in the New York Times.
On Friday, wine writer Eric Pfanner of the New York Times called Tenuta Il Poggione’s Brunello di Montalcino one of “the best wines I have tasted on a recent trip to Montalcino.”
See also his article, “Keeping Up With Tradition in Tuscany,” in which he speaks with Tenuta Il Poggione winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci.
All of the Mazzoni wines are produced on the Tenuta Il Poggione estate by Fabrizio.
What is a Super Tuscan?
The term Super Tuscan is believed to have been coined in the 1980s by English-language wine writers.
At that time, the Italian appellation system lacked proper verbiage to classify the many great Cabernets and Merlots that were produced using French techniques in Tuscany. As a result, some of Italy’s most famous wines were labeled as “vino da tavola” or mere “table wine.”
In order to rectify this travesty, writers begin to call these wines “Super Tuscans,” in other words, Tuscans that went above and beyond the call of duty for table wines.
As for its predecessors, Mazzoni cannot be classified as a DOC or DOCG wine in Italy merely because there exists no appellation for it.
It’s a question of semantics: does a rose by any other name smell the same?
In the case of Mazzoni, the answer is YES!
This blend of Sangiovese and Merlot is made from grapes grown in the town of Montalcino, where one of Tuscany’s most famous wines is made, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.
Appellation regulations require that Brunello be made from 100% Sangiovese. So, when the winemakers at Mazzoni add some noble Merlot grapes to the blend, they are forced NOT to label their wine as Brunello DOCG.
The grapes for Mazzoni are grown in some of the most famous vineyards in the region. Look for notes of ripe fruit and tobacco and cedar flavor.
No matter what you call it, Mazzoni is Italy’s best-dressed Super Tuscan!